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Post Info TOPIC: Tribulations with crow and pigeon shooting equipment


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Tribulations with crow and pigeon shooting equipment
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So, two lots of good news today. One, my big four armed rotary had packed up, was turning then not turning. I had stripped it, but didn't seem to be able to fix it, the gearbox was full of grease, and no water in it, and the motor appeared fine, but kept stopping turning. So had resigned myself to buying a new motor/gearbox unit, or a new rotary. Seems the manufacturer no longer makes the four armed unit, and where I bought it from no longer stocks that make (a seeland unit). So, I ended up or ding a new rotary from elsewhere, two give me two units again (one for crow, slow turning) and one for pigeon (fast turning). I also ordered two new speed controllers and a flapper, so one speed controller on the crow rotary, none one the pigeon rotary, and a speed controller on the flapper (can use for both pigeon and crow then) However, while waiting for that to turn up, I decided to have yet another inspection of the defect rotary, and although I didn't have circlip pliers to totally strip the gearbox, I though maybe the shaft was seized due to rust (it rains a lot here). So sprayed the gearbox full of sewing machine oil, and let it soak for a while, shaft down, so the oil penetrated the shaft space. And lo and behold, it now works perfectly. So fitted a new speed controller, and reassembled, and ready to go. And then, the courier came with the new rotary and flapper too :) So will then have TWO crow rotaries when the speed controllers arrive, happy days indeed :)

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Bob


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Hello ray,

I have back up's for just about everything in case something breaks.

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Redditch,

Funny how it works like that, but on the good side you can't have to much Huntin stuff!


Butch

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Butch wrote:


Redditch,

Funny how it works like that, but on the good side you can't have to much Huntin stuff!


Butch


 I have the same problem.......just stopped on the way home and bought more calls for coyote and ordered two calls and Bob's instructional CD on crow mart about 5 min ago. Will be waiting by the mail box like a kid at Christmas time for the next week or so. 



-- Edited by jacobhwrd on Wednesday 27th of May 2015 09:51:51 PM

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Just waiting on the two new timers now, then it's off to the building company to buy some spray paint (the flapper is grey and the wirly a basic reflective green, so everything is due to be painted in a matt camo colour of green, yellow, brown, and black. Also lengthened the cables, and need to get some sack cloth which I can paint camo coloured to cover the batteries (finding enough foliage is a big problem out in our fields at this time )

-- Edited by Redditch on Thursday 28th of May 2015 08:14:55 AM

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What i find amusing is there is always someone on other forums saying "this don't work" or "that cannot work" but as i always learn; they NEVER tried it!  What ever it happens to be so i won't mention the products but  it works exceptionally well!

 The only draw back is setting up when you got crows coming in left and right!



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Now frankly I wish I didn't have  to use such different techniques but unfortunately there are too too few places to go and i learned  along time ago if you copy every body else you  don't any decent shooting!



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Yep MotionDecoy, always try something new. I was told that home made decoys that use floater poles wouldn't work, they worked perfectly well, and really brought the birds in.
I was told "pop up hides" wouldn't work, but again, I've put one up in the middle of a freshly sew field, and had the birds land on it with me in it.

But the point of this post is, that wiper motor/gearbox shaft seizure is VERY COMMON (especially on cars, but even more so on pigeon magnets due to them being horizontally placed, with the shaft vertical).
But all you need to repair it is a screwdriver, a small hammer, a pair of circlip pliers, and some Emory paper, followed by packing with grease.
It will save you burning out the motor, and also save you binning a perfectly good motor
Take the back off the gearbox (usually four screws)
Remove the circlip from the front of the shaft
Tap the shaft out with a small hammer (plastic or wood mallet is best). If it's stiff, spray with some penetrating oil or diesel, and wait an hour before trying again.
Clean the shaft and housing, using some Emory paper.
Wipe clean with kitchen roll and pack with grease.
Reassemble in reverse order :)

-- Edited by Redditch on Thursday 28th of May 2015 09:52:46 AM

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So, happy days again, I now have 30 new pigeon decoy socks to slip over my pigeon decoys to make them "as new"
I've now gotten the grease and circlip pliers I ordered, completely stripped the whirlie gearbox, cleaned the shaft with Emory cloth, and regreased all, reassembled, and it works like new, should be good for another four years.
My two new 12v 20ah gel batteries for my two spare whirlies also arrived, and have been duly charged ready for when good weather comes.
Also in the post today was the five hessian jute potato sacks I ordered, which can then be placed over the batteries in the field, stopping any bright reflections off the batteries and connectors.
Happy days indeed

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Can't wait to see if the whirlie/crow magnet works on Michigan crows smile.



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Old Artilleryman wrote:

Can't wait to see if the whirlie/crow magnet works on Michigan crows smile.


 They should work just as well on USA corvids as they do on UK corvids. Remember though, the magnet needs a speed controller when using a corvid decoy (or dead bird) so that it goes much slower than with a pigeon decoy or dead bird. 

The magnet needs to go almost flat out for pigeon, but needs to be about 30-60 revolutions a minute max speed for corvids. 

Same with flappers. For corvids a flapper is set at 30-60 beats a minute, and for pigeons 200-300 beats a minute :) 



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