As the gun gets older (many thousands of shots later), you will notice that when ****ing the bolt back, it sometimes seems to "grab" just as the shell carrier plate comes up,
This ISN'T caused by the shell carrier plate, but is the spring retainer sleeve catching on the metal bolt slide over the magazine tubing (this CAN cause sporadic jamming of cases .... Half ejected and then caught by the bolt as it comes back, due to insufficient inertia to eject the case fully. This IS only intermittent, and takes ages to work out if you don't know it)
The simple fix for this is take the gun apart as for normal cleaning, then remove the ****ing handle to allow removal of the bolt/spring assembly.
NOW, comes the tricky part. CAREFULLY take the spring OUT, and be careful, or it will fly off to parts where you might not want it.
NOW, take the plastic OFF the metal slide and tube of the bolt mechanism, and at the FRONT TOP, between the two lips, you will see the round of the tube is flat. This is what's catching. Get a knife or Dremel, and give a slight chamfer on it JUST BETWEEN THE TWO LUGS, so it no longer catches.
Once that's done, the REALLY DIFFICULT BIT COMES, reassembling.
Getting the spring back in, compressed, and then the bolt slider assembly back in is a B******D of a job LOL.
But once done, you will find the action is back to being smooth as silk.
It's caused by the plastic peening over (due to thousands of rounds hammering at the end of it), every time it's fired it gets another blow.
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
Since modifying my A400 XPLOR Light Field this way, I haven't had a single jam. YES, it does kick slightly more, due to it no longer catching and slowing the recoil, but that is negligible, and for the peace of mind of perfect cycling, a minuscule inconvenience
If you have an A400 that starts intermittent jamming, with the case being half thrown out and caught by the bolt on its way back, this is the solution 99% of the time
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
Will this work for a Remington 11-87 do you think? I have trouble with light loads cycling properly...as of right now i need to use high brass loads so far anyways...
Don't think so, as the Remington has a different action. Usually with remingtons, advise cleaning the gas ports of the barrel, cleaning the cylinder around where the gas comes down and where it slides, and also changing the O ring for a new one. (I'm thinking the 11-87 is the same action as the 1100 ? )
Also clean and polish the chamber, as if that's dirty, and rough, it will hold the case, especially the plastic cases
-- Edited by Redditch on Thursday 30th of July 2015 09:18:53 AM
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
Here is a photo of the relevant piece (forehead and barrel removed, action ****ed back. What you need to do is take the bolt and slider off the forend, and then remove the spring. Failing to do so means bits of plastic will end up in the action and possibly cause jamming too. To remove the bolt, press the bolt face back to the circular line, and then pull the bolt handle outwards and it should just pop out (reassembly in reverse order) allowing you to then slide the bolt, follower, and spring off the magazine tube. THEN comes the nice bit, wrap a piece of rag around the spring at the back, and SLOWLY prise the spring out. Once that's done it all comes apart. Then take a knife (or a Dremel) and but a chamber of about 45 degrees on the INSIDE of the lip that's protruding (where the arrow is pointing). Ensure all surfaces are smooth, and then reassemble in reverse order, and everything will be smooth again. A little TF2 oil on the magazine tube, and on the runners of the bolt, smeared between the fingers is more than enough. Then a drop on the bolt rotating lug. ONE DROP, no more. Put the forend and magazine cap back on and try it now, like a hot knife through melted butter :)
-- Edited by Redditch on Thursday 30th of July 2015 02:33:25 PM
Another thing to remember when cleaning.
KEEP ALL oil and grease off the trigger mechanism, and the shell carrier plate. If you don't, every time you fire a cartridge, unburnt powder, smoke, and general crud WILL get onto the mechanism, and stick there. You would be amazed the crud that comes out even after just 100-150 shells.
The easiest to clean the mchanism I found is "brake and clutch cleaner spray" and a brush, followed by a blow off its an air gun.
Once clean and dry, put it back into the gun.
Only place ANY oil or grease should be, is on the bolt carrier rails (this should be one drop each side, and then rubbed along the rails so there is only a sheen of oil, not a runny amount.
On the rotating lug of the bolt, one drop also, and move the bolt back and forth so it gets all around the bolt.
NO OIL OR GREASE ANYWHERE ELSE, or you will get jams sooner or later due to crud building up
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
Ray (Red) have you ever used carburetor cleaner in a spray can, it gets the crud out very quickly. I will do this at the end of the day and just leave the breach bolt open with the muzzle of the Beretta pointed down towards the floor of my motel room. Before the firearm goes back in it's case the next morning I spray a light coat of oil over all the moving parts and I am good to go for another day.
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To listen to this radio talk show go to episode 12, Bob Aronsohn
Ray (Red) have you ever used carburetor cleaner in a spray can, it gets the crud out very quickly. I will do this at the end of the day and just leave the breach bolt open with the muzzle of the Beretta pointed down towards the floor of my motel room. Before the firearm goes back in it's case the next morning I spray a light coat of oil over all the moving parts and I am good to go for another day.
Brake and clutch cleaner spray is basically the same stuff as carburettor cleaner spray, but a lot cheaper to buy :)
carburettor cleaner costs £10.00 a small 200ml can here, whereas the clutch and brake cleaner fluid I get 6 cans for £6.00 posted free and they are 400ml cans :)
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
My prob;lem here again is that the high brass loads cycle easily-the low brass loads do not...the hull gets hung up at the ejection port where I must remove it manually..the first time i shot that gun using a wally world round i had to shove a tree branch down the barrel to eject the hull...I am somewhat superstitious so this was the round that killed my first crow with it meaning the first crow shot with that gun...
I don't remember the 1100 ever jamming unless I I waited too long to clean it....I love the 1100...I love the recoil on my 11-87 as it is pretty good with the decelerator should pad...but it really kicks out the ejected hull sending them flying something like 15 feet(?)
The only serious problem with the 1100/11-87 series, is the fact that the bolt follow rods can and do snap if used with heavy loads. For the rest it's a very reliable soft shooting gun, and I loved mine when I had it. But the gas system is totally different to that on newer designs, and hence the only thing that could go wrong on the gas system was the O ring really. Either that or if people sprayed the lockwork with something like WD40, then also it too would become problematic over the years
-- Edited by Redditch on Monday 10th of August 2015 12:15:46 PM
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If it moves and is legal but also moral, SHOOT IT !!
Thanks but i don't think that is my specific problem none the less I will have it looked at...better safe than sorry!
I will never forget the day my ithaca became a one shot shotgun when something broke as I recall....here I am with all these crows and the gun breaks on me...so i loaded it one at a time...you shotgun experts know exactly what happened to me-I don't know the correct terminology. I couldn't pump it anymore...
