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Post Info TOPIC: Any tips to help me out?


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Any tips to help me out?
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I'm not a huge crow hunter but I would like to start doing it a little more. I only go a few times throughout the year just to get a break from deer hunting since crow hunting isn't as slow paced as deer hunting. Ide like to just throw out what im doing to yall just to see if there is something I should change or if yall could give any tips.

I only hunt in the colder months. It seems most of yall say they fly higher during these times. Where I hunt the trees are also tall (oaks and cedar). So I would be guessing when im crow hunting they might be a farther shot than in warmer months or on a better set up around trees. When I hunt in the woods I try to hunt steep sides of mountains where I have a good angle shooting over the trees down hill (just hoping to close the distance between me and the bird) or in a a thinner patch of trees. I also set up with on field edges, firebreaks, or rows of powerlines.

Im calling with a primos turbo dogg electronic call. It only has 2 crow calls downloaded on it, a fighting call and a gathering call. I hunt mornings and evenings and have more luck with the gathering call. I can download more sounds on it but don't really know what to look for. I normally set it up a little ways in front of me or with my decoys if I use them. I may be messing myself up on this but I normally shoot the first crow in range or first group in range stop calling get the dead bird out of the way and either move or start calling again. Should I let the call run longer before I shoot or will they loose interest, fly off, and I not get a shot?

I do have decoys and an owl decoy, but don't use them much. Ive just recently played around with the crow decoys but not the owl, just hoping I can lure them in a little more for a closer shot. The calls I have don't involve an owl so I haven't use that decoy but I know crows hate owls and that could be useful if I can find out how to use it. Normally I just run and gun. find a spot call a few in, then move again, but I would like to build a more permanent spot to hunt from to use the decoys at and not have to move around as much. When I have used decoys I normally take a couple and just incorporate it into my run and gun idea. I will say I don't have any clue how to set up the decoys in relation to me or how to set my self up in relation to the decoys. I figure like every other type of hunting though there is some general rules I need to follow to set them out. Too it seems I get a lot of bad angles I don't particularly like. seems like they circle a lot overhead/behind or on the other side of the decoys leaving me with a weird straight up shot or long shot over the top of the decoys but rarely in the range I want them around the decoys

since I just run and gun I don't have a great blind built for cover but when I find an area I try to find some baby cedars to wedge myself in or a bigger cedar with low hanging limbs I can tuck up under.

For the gun. Im shooting a 12 ga cz wood**** o/u. The gun does not have fixed chokes like some over and unders, they are screw in so I can change them out and there is a barrel selector on the safety so I can switch which barrel shoots first. I shoot the top barrel first with a modified choke and a full in the bottom for the follow up. should I switch the chokes up some to improved cylinder or improved modified or am I better off with what I have right now.

Ive played with a mixture of shells but not finding consistent results in something that I can knock them down with. I get feathers sometimes and the bird flys off or it takes follow up shots. 2 3/4 inch 8 shot in 1 and 1 1/8 oz shot. 2 3/4 inch 7 1/2 shot in everything up to 1 1/4 oz. Right now im play with 3 inch pheasant loads in 5 shot 1 5/8 oz in the top barrel and 2 3/4 inch 6 shot 1 5/8oz in the bottom. I could flip them but I was hoping to get away with the heavier 5 shot up close by jumping up to 3 inch shells. They are a little more costly shoot but with the amount I have gone it hasn't been an issue. that being said if I start hunting more I don't want to be buying $20 pheasant loads.

I have done a my share of trap shooting so a shotgun is nothing new to me and I feel very comfortable with switching rounds and chokes if I need to. That being said I may just need to adjust more to a setting outside of trap shooting and the occasional quail hunt.



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I forgot to say I haven't patterned my shotgun. I realize it is important but im waiting until the new year to get another gun club membership so my membership will last a full year. If I do it now I pay full price for it to expire at the end of 2013.

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Evo -

I am not an expert like many guys on this forum, but first, you should read all of the beginner and advanced articles and techniques on this website. You can get to the advanced stuff by just becoming a member. Then, if you scroll the many topics on this forum, many of your questions will be answered.

I have a Primos Alpha Dogg with many more pre-loaded calls than the Turbo Dogg. If you go to the Primos store you can find many other calls, including crows. Here is the site: shop.primos.com/c-154-primos-sounds.aspx

I also have had good luck find many other crow sounds on the internet. It's a little tricky if you have to have to convert audio files to .mp3 format. In addition, I have recorded sounds with my cell phone "Voice Recording" app and edited and loaded those on my e-caller. I have over 60 sounds on my caller now. Actually, too many because it's tempting to be impatient and try this call and that call -- and OVER call.

Setting up decoys is a never-ending experiment. Getting some up in the trees is a big plus. I have not used my owl decoy much either, but just playing the "fighting" sounds with the decoy present might work, even if there is no "owl" sound. Key though, is not placing crow decoys below the level of the owl decoy.

Concealment and good blinds are key to the whole thing. Crows are too smart to get away with not being COMPLETELY hidden and in full camo.

This is more difficult than any other hunting you will ever do. Crows make deer, turkeys, and ducks seem like child's play. It's war, and you can't make any mistakes.

Good luck! Welcome!

Jerry



-- Edited by Rook-ie on Tuesday 10th of December 2013 03:02:17 PM

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Thanks Jerry. I went to primos to download more calls the other day but the link wasn't working. It is now though.

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Jerry touched on some stuff.
Loads: Some use either 7 1/2 or 8's in skeet/trap loads. 3 dram equiv (I believe is 1200 fps. )
Others use 6's or 5's.
3 inch shells are overkill, all that extra recoil and expense for little or no increase in killing. And if you get into a hundred shot
day your shoulder will feel it. And if you get into one of Bob A. 500 bird days .......
I have found that owls only seem to work in the spring. Around March. Otherwise they just ignore owls. Might be too many garden ornaments that are owls around here. Leaving the dead where they lie until you pack up adds decoys to your spread. Dead ones on the ground may also attract them as they do mourn their dead. Camo and movement are biggies with these birds. They apparently can see in color and can discern patterns. This means that they can spot the human shape. Also just wearing camo won't cut it if the pattern does not match the terrain as they will see the difference in patterns. They will see you move if you are not hidden. So don't move til the last second. (when you are ready to pull the trigger). Which choke.....some use mod others use full. Whatever works for your style of shooting. Time will tell that one..

And I am sure others will chime in with more advise.

Good Hunting
Welcome Aboard

Pat B



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As far as shells go, I would say most guys on here go with the cheapest shells they can find in whatever brand/shot size patterns best with their guns. 100 round bricks of Winchester or Federal range/game loads are the cheapest around here and work well for me. I use a modified choke, but IC seems to be a popular choice too. 2 3/4 inch is the standard around here due to cheaper cost and lower recoil, plus the 3 inch is probably overkill. It sounds like if you are getting feathers but not dropping them you may not be leading them enough, or your shotgun may not be patterning well with the ammo you are using. Also, check your range with the shotgun/ammo combo you are using and make sure you are getting enough pellets at the ranges you are attempting.

Basically it all comes down to lots of time at the range, then lots of time in the field.

Good luck!

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Crows are actually very easy to shoot once you figure out a few basics. Once you locate an area with crows to hunt you need to focus on the following in this order;

Concealment - Lack of a blind is a hinderance. Blinds need to be good, better than blinds used for waterfowling. They need to be placed in areas where the shots will be lower, rather than over the tree tops.

Calling - Admittedly some calling sounds are better than others, I advise going with the old standby's from Johnny Stewart, Crow Come Here, Crow and Owl fight. They work for sure, there is a lot of "junk" out there. Crows are curious and anxious to join a ruckus, an e-caller will bring them to you.  A mouth call can seal the deal as they approach when used with an e-caller, it can also sometimes turn them around after the first shot are fired for another go at them. Again some mouth calls are better than others,  A Faulk C-50 sounds great and doesn't break the bank.

Decoys - Only a few are needed, a half a dozen work fine, the decoys give crows the visual to go with audio which lures them into range. Place your decoys 20 to 25 yards in front and down wind of your hiding place. If you can get one or two of those half dozen elevated it may work better.  Skip the Owl decoy.
 
Shooting - Practice shooting in the off season so that you can reliably hit what you have called in. Shoot skeet, trap and sporting clays any chance you get. You certainly don't need 12ga magnums to kill crows, that is a lot of overkill. 7/8 to 1 1/8 ounce loads in 20 to 12 gauge going 1125 to 1200 fps is all that is needed at any range with the right choke and shot size.  I prefer #6 at any range.

Good luck and have fun.



 



-- Edited by nhcrowshooter on Wednesday 11th of December 2013 12:22:25 PM

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And take more ammo than you think you might need. Think like this -there's more where that one came from! if you gun and run? get some kind of a ghillie suit. this style of shooting requires you stand perfectly still until the last second then do it duck hunter style I mean if that is all the shooting you will do in that location right? basically some camouflage poncho will work nicely but break up the outline of your head.I use a boonie hat in fall camouflage of one nature or another and attache those fake fall colored leaves. Works great and you can wear some kind of face mask or just use  that make up but if you go into a store for a snack expect stares.And keep those hands cammied up!

 if I did this I would stand perfectly still and when the crow came over me I snap shot it!



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3 inch shells are overkill, all that extra recoil and expense for little or no increase in killing.

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I don't think it would matter too much, but I would shoot the bottom barrel first. By doing so, the recoil is more direct into your shoulder, and the gun will not jump up as much after the first shot. I am a trap shooter and everyone shoots the bottom barrel for that reason. Again, I don't think it would make much of a difference, but it may help reduce a little recoil, and get you a faster second shot.

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Pachmyer slip on recoil pads are the best so far. I got something attached to my shotgun when I boughht it and the recoil is absolutely pain free but the recoil is certainly there!

(hint: it came on my remington shoulder stock already attached)



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nhcrowshooter wrote:

Crows are actually very easy to shoot once you figure out a few basics. Once you locate an area with crows to hunt you need to focus on the following in this order;

Concealment - Lack of a blind is a hinderance. Blinds need to be good, better than blinds used for waterfowling. They need to be placed in areas where the shots will be lower, rather than over the tree tops.

Calling - Admittedly some calling sounds are better than others, I advise going with the old standby's from Johnny Stewart, Crow Come Here, Crow and Owl fight. They work for sure, there is a lot of "junk" out there. Crows are curious and anxious to join a ruckus, an e-caller will bring them to you.  A mouth call can seal the deal as they approach when used with an e-caller, it can also sometimes turn them around after the first shot are fired for another go at them. Again some mouth calls are better than others,  A Faulk C-50 sounds great and doesn't break the bank.

Decoys - Only a few are needed, a half a dozen work fine, the decoys give crows the visual to go with audio which lures them into range. Place your decoys 20 to 25 yards in front and down wind of your hiding place. If you can get one or two of those half dozen elevated it may work better.  Skip the Owl decoy.
 
Shooting - Practice shooting in the off season so that you can reliably hit what you have called in. Shoot skeet, trap and sporting clays any chance you get. You certainly don't need 12ga magnums to kill crows, that is a lot of overkill. 7/8 to 1 1/8 ounce loads in 20 to 12 gauge going 1125 to 1200 fps is all that is needed at any range with the right choke and shot size.  I prefer #6 at any range.

Good luck and have fun.

 


 



-- Edited by nhcrowshooter on Wednesday 11th of December 2013 12:22:25 PM


 

Now that is some awesome advice!

 

The only thing I can add is; if you can afford it book a hunt with someone that knows what they are doing. You will learn more in one trip with a professional than you will learn via trial and error in a few years.



-- Edited by Elkhunter on Thursday 9th of January 2014 06:32:12 PM

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